Our expedition day included tear-wrenching local histories, trying our hand at making tortillas, and a LOT of water and bumps. We embarked on our magical school bus before 7 AM, with a stop for breakfast on the way to Lake Atitlán [look it up!] Several students and a few adventurous therapists, got to try their hand at making tortillas on a authentic tortilla brick & stone stove . We were all pleasantly surprised at the local food served – the beans, plantains, fresh fruit, orange juice, “café”, eggs and, of course, fresh tortillas were DELICIOUS!
The bus handled the switchbacks and curves up and down the lush mountainside with grace. Cows, indigenous Maya with wares and children draped over their bodies, and brightly colored cement houses dotted the side of the roads and highways. Our host, Steve, shared stories of his struggle against corruption involving adoptions of Guatemalan children, and the creation of his organization “Love the Child”.
Lake Atitlan was impressive with its three non-active volcanoes (San Pedro, Toliman, and Atitlan) and blue waters. During our ride, we learned a few local folktales surrounding the local landscape. One told of a prince and princess from neighboring, but warring villages that fell in love and would meet in the middle of the lake each night. But one day, the princess drowned. The prince continues to look for her each afternoon, and this causes the lake to become turbulent at this time of day. Once arriving across the lake in Santiago, we were transported in the local way – standing in the back of a Toyota truck retro-fitted with a “safety” bars. We learned from a local farmer of a mudslide that happened about 5 years ago, that decimated several acres of homes and took the lives of1,225 indigenous that were trapped by the mud. Since then, most of relocated to a safer side of the mountain – but some are so connected to the land that they remain in this place of “big rocks”, despite risk of landslide and volcano eruption. We also visited a local “Peace Park” that commemorated a massacre in the 90s of 13 local Maya that were engaged in peaceful protests by the Guatemalan military as part of the 36 years civil war. While we were having lunch at the peace park – the rains began – and they stayed STRONG.
We returned to our boats via our standing trunks down roads that had been transformed into rolling rivers in a matter of minutes. The boat ride back was wet, cloudy, and nearly as bumpy as the back of the bus – but everyone disembarked with smiles and a great attitude! We were again surrounded with local artisans selling their wares (beaded animals, handmade textiles, and bracelets) back at the Panajachel docks.
Off we went again our school bus, three hours back over the mountains, through winding, but well-paved roads, to a Maya ruin called Iximche. Iximche consisted of several uncovered mounds thought to be temples, ball courts and palaces. The mist added to the feeling of antiquity, and the general historical ambiance. We were again treated to a delicious dinner, at one of Steve’s favorite “Rancheros”, of grilled meats, potatoes, leeks and some ROCKIN guacamole! We returned safely to the beautiful Hotel Santa Ana, despite extremely tight squeezes, torrential rain, wet roads, and sharp corners in a very long school bus!
Steve Recommended Reading: 1492; Mountains to Mountains; To the Mountain and Back;
Hillary Recommends: Guatemalan Journey
Katie Recommends watching: “The Motorcycle Diaries” & “The
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